The coalition of the companies in 1821 was a victory for monopoly. It was also
a victory for English capital, for English manufacturers and for English business
organization. Economy, conservation and discipline could now be practised in
the fur trade, and an attempt made to abolish the abuses born of competition:
the sale of liquor and ammunition to the Indians, the givmg of gratuities, and
the debt and lending system. The days of revels at the famous Beaver Club in
Montreal were over, and the depot at Fort William was closed. All routes from
the north-western interior were now adjusted to lead to Norway House on Lake
Winnipeg, a business and administrative centre, and to York Factory on Hudson
Bay, the terminus of the shipping lane from England.
The traders in the field noticed these changes, hut for them there were still
the same wearisome and dangerous duties to be performed. Not a year went by
without hardship and peril: starvation, exposure, death in the rapids and at
the sand-bar, fire in the night, treachery, murder, sometimes mutiny. South
of the Columbia River, nearly every summer there were war expeditions, as John
Work wrote, against "savages made brave by ... . trust me, my friend, it
is no jest being engaged in them, a ball from an Indian will send a poor d---l
home as well as from a white man".1 "The privations and fatigues of
a barbarous country"2 were still their lot, and "the vapid monotony
of an inland trading Post"3 was broken only by the arrival of the express
with Canadian newspapers and with letters from old companions, now stationed
at distant posts or living in retirement in Montreal and other Canadian towns.
The need for companionship drove many a clerk and trader to take an Indian
wife "after the custom of the country"; on long and dangerous trapping
expeditions, the "little partner", or more affectionately, "the
little rib", made camp-life endurable and performed many heavy tasks. Men
like John Work were kind to these women, ordering trinkets for their adornment
("It is for the girl, I want these things, Some necklaces & earrings"),4
schooling them, and providing what comforts they could. No matter how much the
traders might long to leave the service and return to civilization, affection
and gratitude helped to keep them in the Indian country.
Often the little partner presented her master with so many sons and daughters
that he remained at his post to earn a "competency" for their education,
perhaps at the Red River Academy, or later, at the Fort Vancouver school or
at the new Methodist missions on the Columbia River. Even those traders who
professed to be deists or agnostics felt a keen sense of responsibility for
inculcating in their half-breed children principles of "morality"
and "habits of industry": to friends in Canada and England they sent
begging letters, pleading to have their children taken in as members of more
civilized households and apprenticed to trades. By 1840, however, the vogue
for Indian and half-breed wives was changing; on their furloughs, traders now
chose English and Scottish brides and brought them back to live in a country
which previously had been considered no place for a white woman."
In the new coalition, it was the Nor'Westers who were affected most by the
change. Authority and a class structure based on rank were substituted for the
egalitarianism of the old co-partnership. West of the mountains, most of the
"Commissioned gentlemen" were former Nor'Westers. As Chief Factors
and Chief Traders they were allotted a share in the Hudson's Bay Company's earnings.
Chief Factors were also given a voice in the administration of one of the Departments,
the large units into which the Company divided its territories, and exercised
the right of nomination for promotions. But above them now stood their masters
in Fenchurch Street, the Governor and Committee in London, and their immediate
superior, George Simpson, Governor of the expanded Northern Department of Rupert's
Land. The clerk and the bourgeois who could earn "the approval of the great
folks" was most quickly advanced, and every officer of the Company hoped
to benefit from "the disposal of their favours".
A magnificent comradeship between equals had existed in the days of the North
West Company: this esprit de corps old Nor'Westers were as determined to retain
as they were to transfer their loyalty to the Hudson's Bay Company. With the
conviction that they were energetically applying their talents in the new service,
and confidently expecting his recognition and approval, they awaited Governor
Simpson's first visit to the Far West.
When Sunday, August 15, 1824, arrived and the ship bearing his instructions
from London had not yet appeared at York Factory, Governor Simpson could no
longer restrain his impatience to inspect the Columbia Department. Since taking
office in 1821, he had reconstructed the fur trade in all his other districts;
new and challenging problems awaited solution in the area west of the mountains.
A career man, thirty-seven years of age, with good connections, he had served
only a short apprenticeship in the field. At his station on Lake Athabasca during
the winter of 1820, he had learned something from personal experience about
the transport problem of New Caledonia. The only basis of his knowledge, as
yet, of conditions in the Columbia Department was rumour and report. He was
impatient to be off: the season for northern navigation was drawing to a close,
and Dr. John McLoughlin, appointed a Chief Factor of the district at the recent
meeting of the Council of the Northern Department, was already twenty days on
his way to Port George. Simpson decided to wait no longer; with Chief Trader
James McMillan, he embarked in a canot du nord on the rough waters of Hayes
River.
Travelling a new and difficult route by way of Nelson River, Frog Portage,
Churchill River and Methy Portage, Simpson arrived at Isle a' la Crosse on September
5, and eleven days later, just before reaching Athabasca River, overtook his
surprised, vexed and very much dishevelled subordinate. The speed of the expedition
was now slackened "in order to give the Dr an Opportunity of keeping up,"5
but even so, Simpson was able to cut travel time from York Factory to Fort George
at the mouth of the Columbia River, a distance of some 3,500 miles, from 104
to 84 days.
Along the way, Governor Simpson halted to consult with the men in the field.
He had his own ideas concerning reforms to be made and innovations to be introduced
into the fur trade, but it was his habit to weigh every Opinion. Since the coalition
of the two great fur companies, economies had been effected by closing duplicate
posts in the west and reducing personnel; he now wished to collect information
which would help him to redirect and reorganize the transport system. The "most
tedious harrassing and expensive transport in the Indian Country" was canoe
freighting to and from New Caledonia. As he approached the mountains, and continued
on his journey from Jasper House through Athabasca Pass to Boat Encampment,
he pondered the advisability of substituting for the dangerous route along the
Parsnip and Peace Rivers, the leather-shipment route through Athabasca and Yellowhead
Passes, and then transferring New Caledonia's valuable furs to York boats at
Edmonton for shipment by the Saskatchewan River route to York Factory. But it
was too soon to reach a decision; he intended to winter at Fort George on the
lower Columbia, and by spring he would have more information.
After leaving Boat Encampment, Simpson turned his attention to the request
of the Governor and Committee in London that he investigate the possibility
of developing trade on the north side of the Columbia River. The Americans might
assert their right to repossess Fort George at any time, and the boundary discussions
then in progress might terminate the ten-year arrangement for joint British
and American occupation of the region west of the mountains. From Chief Trader
McMillan, who had explored the upper Columbia River with Thompson in 1809, he
sought a voluntary offer to undertake new exploration. When nothing came of
this suggestion, he returned to the subject later in the day, spiritedly remarking
that "rather than allow an other Season pass without obtaining a knowledge
of the Coast natives & resources of that part of the Country (our ignorance
of which after being established on the Coast upwards of Fourteen years being
a disgrace to the whole Concern)", he, Governor Simpson, would go himself.
Chagrined over his own original lack of enthusiasm, McMillan immediately offered
his, services for "this dangerous and unpleasant mission".
At Spokane House, Governor Simpson received his first intimation that "everything
on the Columbia... except the Trade [was] on too extended a scale. . . ."
"If my information is correct", he wrote in his journal, "the
Columbia Department from the Day of its Origin to the present hour has been
neglected, shamefully mismanaged and a scene of the most wasteful extravagance
and the most unfortunate dissention." He further observed that 'the good
people of Spokane District and I believe of the interior of the Columbia generally
have since its first establishment shewn an extraordinary predilection for European
Provisions
all this time they may be said to have been eating Gold; such
fare we cannot afford in the present times. . . ." A taste for salmon would
have to be cultivated, the cost of conveying 'Eatables Drinkables and other
Domestic Comforts" reduced, and the men at present engaged in transporting
luxuries, released for more essential service.
Moreover, greater economy and more productive effort would have to be apparent
in the Snake River trapping expeditions. For political rather than for commercial
considerations, Governor Simpson decided to reverse his usual policy of conservation
and launch an offensive to destroy this rich beaver, reserve. Ordering Peter
Skene Ogden to "proceed direct for the heart of the Snake country towards
the Banks of the Spanish River or Rio Colorado", he took the first step
to make this strategic area, so seriously exposed to American penetration, a
fur desert.
At Fort Okanogan, he ordered reduction of staff. At Fort Walla Walla, he found
the traders too indulgent of the extravagant whims of their Indian wives, and
criticized for his lassitude Chief Trader John Warren Dease, said by his friends
to be a "great Tea Drinker", although Simpson's prying eye told him
better: "Were he to drink a pint of Wine with his Friends on extraordinary
occasions, get up earlier in the morning eat a hearty breakfast and drink less
Tea I should have a much better opinion of him." Anticipating the establishment
of an American claim to the south bank of the Columbia River, Simpson, before
he left, made plans for Fort Walla Walla's removal to the north side of the
river. By the time he arrived at Fort George, he had persuaded himself that
"mismanagement and extravagance [had] been the order of the day" in
the whole Columbia Department, and that a radical change must be effected. Reduction
of staff at Fort George, Walla Walla, Spokane House and Fort Kamloops from 151
to 83 officers and men, making for an annual saving of over £2,000, would
be one step in this direction.
In the course of his tour, Governor Simpson had kept in mind the present view
of the Governor and Committee in London that although the best days of the beaver
trade might be over in the Columbia Department, evacuation and withdrawal to
New Caledonia, a step which had been contemplated two years earlier, would now
be unwise. George Canning, the great British Foreign Minister, had pointed out
to officers of the Company the vital importance to the Pacific trade of the
coastline between the Columbia River and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Lack of
definition of the western section of the International Boundary Line and equal
sharing of trading rights with the Americans made the future uncertain, but
attention to trade under the present territorial arrangement might yield national
as well as commercial advantage.
Collision between the diametrically opposed commercial practices of British
and American furtraders would, however, be difficult to avoid. In all of British
North America lying outside the established colonies, from Labrador to the Rocky
Mountains, the British government had sanctioned paternalism and monopoly; in
the Far West, American activity since the appearance of the first Yankee trader
had been characterized by individualism and competition. Fortunately for the
Hudson's Bay Company, no interference from British competitors need be feared
for in spite of the growing popularity of Adam Smith's theories and the increasing
British dislike of monopolistic privileges, the reorganized company had obtained
in 1821, by Royal License, for a period of twenty-one years, the exclusive trading
rights in the region lying between Rupert's Land and the Rocky Mountains, and
in addition, by parliamentary act, the sole British right to trade in the "Indian
Territory" west of the mountains.
During his residence at Fort George, Governor Simpson, to his own surprise,
found himself growing more and more enthusiastic about trade prospects in the
Columbia Department With extension of trade, and with proper management, he
soon decided, the Department could be made to yield double the profit of any
other part of North America. Formerly, in the days of the North West Company,
New Caledonia, although supplied from the Columbia, had been merely an extension
of the Athabasca Department, and the inland trade had vastly overshadowed the
coastal. For the coastal trade, Fort George had served little useful purpose:
the Nor'Westers, like the Yankee peddlers, were supplied with trading goods
brought round the Horn, and like them, used their sailing ships as mobile bases.
Simpson intended to change all this; he would integrate the inland and the coastal
trade and choose a new and more central location for the Pacific depot.
Convinced that "Frazers River appears to be formed by nature as the grand
communication with all our Establishments on this side the mountain", he
allowed McMillan, his "Staunch & Manly Friend and Fellow Traveller",
only eleven days' before despatching him on a northern expedition.
Accompanied by John Work and a party of forty men, including Sandwich Islanders
and Iroquois, McMillan left Fort George on November 18. After portaging in "weighty
rain" most of the way to Gray's Harbour, he followed the Chehalis River
and again portaged to Puget Sound. Continuing along the eastern channel of the
Sound to above the 49th parallel, he entered the Nicomekl River at Boundary
Bay. Ascending this stream to a portage across the black and loamy Soil of Langley
Prairie, he reached Salmon River, and paddling down its serpentine course, entered
Fraser River on December 16 near the site later to be chosen for Fort Langley.
The first Europeans to reach the lower Fraser River since Simon Fraser's exploration
were impressed by its size. "At this place", wrote John Work, "it
is a fine looking River at least 1000 yards wide as wide as the Columbia at
Oak Point".6 As the men ascended to Hatzic Lake, they found the country
well populated with Indians who were ready to trade. Simpson had hoped that
McMillan might be able to push north to Thompson River, but winter was upon
him, and he was not properly equipped for an overland journey. Turning back,
he travelled quickly down the river, and on December 20 his canoes, following
the South Arm, successfully entered the Strait of Georgia from the main channel
of the river.
Probably because Governor Simpson sought confirmation for a preconceived intention,
he read into McMillan's report rather too much that was favourable. He decided
to move the main depot to the Fraser River.
A desire to meet Russian competition on the North West Coast from a more strategic
base influenced his judgment. The Russian-American Company was still very active
in the northern fur trade, although it was not the threat that it had been a
decade or so earlier when, after considering extension of its operations to
Nootka Sound and the mouth of the Columbia River, it had established its post
in California. The construction of Fort Kilmaurs on Babine Lake by the Hudson's
Bay Company in 1822 had helped to direct the inter-tribal commerce of the Skeena
River towards the Interior, and further diversion would probably result from
the proposed establishment of Chilcotin and Connolly's Lake. But what Simpson
called the "sweeping and absurd Ukase of the Russian Government"7
had fenced in the territory and waters north of 51 North Latitude. The pointed
warning given by President James Monroe against further European colonization
of the North American continent had been followed, in 1824, by delimitation
of Russian and American spheres of influence, with 54º40' as the dividing
line. The directors of the Hudson's Bay Company in London, already aware in
1824 that an Anglo-Russian agreement was in the offing, purchased the brig William
and Ann, hoping to be able to use her for northern coastal trading. They were
not disappointed; the Convention of February, 1825, established a demarcation
line commencing in latitude 54º40', extending up Portland Canal to 56º
North Latitude, and then running along the summit of the mountain range parallel
to the Coast as far as the intersection with the 141st parallel. Across the
lisière later known as the "Alaskan Panhandle", British subjects
obtained the right of navigation and, for a period of ten years, the right to
trade in coastal waters and to use the port of Sitka. With Fraser River as its
main base, Simpson was certain that the Hudson's Bay Company "could with
greater facility and at less expence extend our discoveries and Establishments
to the Northward
".8
But the immediate task to be taken in hand was the selection on the north bank
of the Columbia River of a new site for Fort George. Chief Factors Alexander
Kennedy and John McLoughlin, sent to choose one, reported that they could find
"no eligible Situation to Build on nigher the Entrance of the River"9
than Lieutenant W. B. Broughton's Belle Vue Point, a spot about eighty miles
from the sea and near the mouth of the Willamette River. Buildings were erected
there during the winter and goods transferred in the spring. Simpson intended
the new trading-post to be secondary in importance to his prospective depot
on Fraser River, but when he visited the site in the course of his return voyage,
he was more than pleased with its location. "It will in Two Years hence
be the finest place in North America", he wrote; "indeed I have rarely
seen a Gentleman's Seat in England possessing so many natural advantages and
where ornament and use are so agreeably combined".10
To identify British claim to the soil with Captain Vancouver's discovery of
the river and coast, Simpson decided to name it in honour of "that distinguished
navigator". Mustering the "Gentlemen, Servants, Chiefs & Indians",
at sunrise on Saturday, March 19, 1825, he "Baptised it by breaking a Bottle
of Rum on the Flag Staff and repeating the following words in a loud voice,
'In behalf of the Honble Hudsons Bay Coy I hereby name this Establishment Fort
Vancouver God Save King George the 4th' with three cheers." In his journal
he added a notation: "Gave a couple of Drains to the people and Indians
on the occasion."
The "little emperor", who had had so few words of praise for any
of his officers, had now arrived at almost all his major decisions for revitalizing
the Columbia Department's fur trade. In the interest of retrenchment, he ordered
imports to be reduced and attention paid to agriculture: "It has been said
that Farming is no branch of the Fur Trade but I consider that every pursuit
tending to leighten the Expence of the Trade is a Branch thereof. "11 As
the site for a post to replace Spokane House, he selected for Fort Colvile land
near Kettle Falls "where as much Grain and potatoes may be raised as would
feed all the Natives of the Columbia".12 He revised transportation routes,
and believing that the Fraser River could serve as highway from New Caledonia
to the sea, he decided to abandon his earlier plan for rerouting that district's
transport through Edmonton. The Snake and Umpqua trapping expeditions were reorganized.
Taking the larger view of political and commercial prospects, which he felt
the Council had failed to do, he proposed direct entry into the Canton trade.
Finally, he invested Chief Factor John McLoughlin with wide discretionary power
m making appointments and other important arrangements.
A temporary Council of the Northern Department which met at Norway House on
June 20, 1825, gave approval to Simpson's plans. Less than a fortnight later,
the Council in full session at York Factory granted his desire to annex New
Caledonia to the Columbia for purposes of supply and transport, and directed
Chief Factor William Connolly, in charge of the Northern District, to take the
New Caledonia returns to Fort Vancouver in the spring of 1826, and there obtain
the outfit.18 Presumably warned by Chief Factor John Stuart, whom he met on
his return journey, that the Fraser River would have to be more carefully investigated
before it was opened to transport, Simpson restored to use for the time being
the North West Company's route from the Columbia River through the Okanagan
Valley.
After the July meeting of the Council, he proceeded to England to spend the
winter. Even at this distance, he interested himself in the affairs of the Columbia
Department, continuing to send detailed instructions to Dr. McLoughlin, his
senior both in years and in experience. Relations between the two men were still
warm and friendly, although their views on important matters differed. McLoughlin
neither accepted his Superior's fatalistic attitude concerning the eventual
surrender of territory south of the Columbia River to the Americans, nor shared
his interest in establishing Fraser River; still, he was willing to comply with
orders.
McLoughlin's first attempt to establish a post at the mouth of the Fraser River
in 1826 failed when "freemen", former servants of the Company, deserted
to the Saskatchewan. In 1827, as instructed, he made use of the Cadboro, a small
schooner of 72 tons burden, which had been sent from England for the coasting
trade. On July 12, James McMillan, recently appointed a Chief Factor, embarked
at Whidbey Island with a party of twenty-five men. Three days later the Cadboro
reached the mouth of the Fraser River and then for nine days searched for a
channel through the sand-heads. Finally, she was able to enter the river, and
continuing up-stream past the "HB Tree" which McMillan had marked
on the south bank three years earlier, anchored in deep water near the place
where he had first reached the river, about thirty miles from its mouth.
On July 30, a start was made at clearing the ground for Fort Langley. The work
was laborious, "from the timber being strong, and the ground completely
covered with thick underwood, interwoven with Brambles & Briars",14
but by August ii one bastion was "nearly at its height", and by September
8, the picketing of the stockade was completed, the gates were hung, and two
twelve-foot bastions were ready to be occupied by the "artillery".
"The Tout ensemble must make a formidable enough appearance in the eyes
of Indians", McMillan exulted. On November 26 a flagstaff was cut and erected
in the fort's southeast corner, and the usual form of baptism gone through.
To celebrate the event, the men were regaled. New Year's Day was celebrated
in greater style: "Every one in high glee", wrote McMillan, "Jean
Baptiste considerably elevated, and as a matter of course displaying his Manhood."
When Chief Trader Archibald McDonald arrived nine months later to take charge
of the fort, he found it well fortified its size, 135 feet by 120, impressive.
A small log house of two compartments housed the "gentlemen", a large
building of three compartments the men; a dwelling-house with "an excellent
cellar and a spacious garret" was ready for wainscoting and partitioning,
and another building containing two square rooms, each with a fireplace, had
an adjoining kitchen. The storehouse was "furnished with three thousand
dried salmon, sixteen tierces salted ditto, thirty-six cwt. flour, two cwt.
grease, and thirty bushels salt" and each of three fields had been planted
with thirty bushels of potatoes.15
To examine this new post, ascertain its suitability as the main Pacific depot
and determine positively whether or not the Fraser River was navigable throughout
its length, Simpson, now Governor of both the Northern and Southern Departments,
returned to the Columbia in 1828.
On this visit, important decisions would have to be made, for the Hudson's
Bay Company's retirement from the Columbia River was now an imminent possibility.
The British and American governments, having failed again to reach agreement
on a suitable boundary west of the mountains, had decided in 1827 to renew indefinitely
the arrangement for joint occupancy, on the understanding that either nation
might terminate it on a year's notice. During the discussions, the British government,
which during Canning's time had recognized the strategic importance of the Columbia
River, had now seemed indifferent to its future; in contrast, the American spokesman
had reflected President John Quincy Adams's feeling that the territory now becoming
known as Oregon was destined by the Law of Nature to be a field for American
colonization.
With the Americans showing more interest in the area, Simpson knew that the
time had come to demonstrate, particularly to the Indians, the power and might
of the Hudson's Bay Company.
Display and fanfare marked his westward progress. With three cheers and a salute
of seven guns from the garrison, he took his leave of York Factory at one o'clock
in the morning of July 12. His north canoe, one of "faultless grace and
beauty", its bow "gaudily but tastefully painted",16 and its
paddies vermilion red, carried a crew of nine, and as passenger, a young Highland
piper, ready to play strathspeys at the Governor's pleasure. In a second canoe
rode Doctor Hamiyn and Chief Trader Archibald McDonald, both on their way to
stations in the Columbia Department. Neither was particularly good company for
Simpson: McDonald, he found, was "not a [James] McMillan, the former is
all jaw & no work the latter all work & no jaw",17 but both were
useful to "watch time" so that the party might make an early morning
start at two o'clock On this express journey the voyageurs, paddling until eight
o'clock in the evening and making only the briefest of stops for "nooning",
covered between 90 and 100 miles a day.
From Fort Chipewyan, the expedition followed Sir Alexander Mackenzie's route
of 1793 to the source of the Peace River, arriving unexpectedly at Fort McLeod
on September ii. There they found John Tod and his two men "on short commons,
their fishery having been very uncertain throughout the summer". The overland
trip of only one hundred miles to Stuart Lake took five days and proved to be
"a very fatigueing part" of the journey. At the last camp, the party
entertained a handful of Carrier Indians by playing the bagpipes, the bugle
and "the musical box that excited their astonishment most, especially when
it was made to appear to be the Governor's Dog that performed the whole secret".
The next morning, the men "for the sake of the Indians" changed into
their sky-blue uniforms in preparation for "an imposing entree into the
Capital of Western Caledonia". Within a thousand yards of the fort, a gun
was fired, the bugle sounded, and the piper commenced the march of the clans;
the guide carrying the British ensign led the procession; Governor Simpson on
horseback was followed by Hamlyn and McDonald on their chargers, then by twenty
men carrying packs, and "Mr. McGillivray [with his wife and light infantry]
closed the rear". Under "a brisk discharge of small arms and wall
pieces from the Fort", the Governor was greeted by James Douglas, a young
clerk who had taken charge of the post during Chief Factor Connolly's absence
at Fort Vancouver.
Living conditions in New Caledonia, Simpson found, were far from satisfactory.
At all the posts, fish "with an occasional treat of Berry Cake prepared
by the Natives, and a Dog Feast on high Days and holydays" constituted
the means of living, and McLeod's Lake seemed to him to be "the most wretched
place in the Indian country". Yet however miserable these conditions, he
recognized that they were "no wise to be compared" with those of the
early part of the administration of John Stuart, the Nor'Wester. The annual
profit from the district, he thought, could be increased from £9,000 to
between £10,000 or £12,000, but not beyond.
On September 27, the party arrived at Fort Alexandria, the end of navigation.
There the men divided into two groups, Simpson with Hamlyn, McDonald and two
men to travel by horseback to Kamloops, and the others, under the leadership
of James Murray Yale, to descend the Fraser River to its junction with the Thompson.
After "a ride occupying Eight Days, and possessing all the agreeable and
disagreeable varieties of Scenery & Road, which the most ardent admirer
of the Wilds could desire", the "respectable cavalcade", flag
flying, pipes playing, and with "much firing on both sides", was led
by the indefatigable Governor at dusk into Fort Kamloops, that "very unprofitable
establishment". There a boat was hastily constructed and two days later,
the party embarked "in full puff" to descend the Thompson River.
At first, the going was relatively easy; then the river banks became rugged
and the rapids formidable. Most of the distance to Lytton was covered in a single
day, but near Lytton, the boat was nearly swamped while running one of the rapids.
"The whitened countenances of the boldest amongst us," wrote Simpson,
"even that of our dark Iroquois Bowsman who is nearly amphibious, shewed
that we felt any thing but comfortable: indeed there was no comfort in the whole
passage of this turbulent River. . . ." The Thompson River had proven unnavigable,
but the Governor's hopes began to rise at Lytton where he received an encouraging
report from James Murray Yale, who had descended the Fraser River from Fort
Alexandria and found that its navigation required "more confidence than
Skill".
After leaving Lytton, Simpson was obliged to admit defeat: "The banks
now erected themselves into perpendicular Mountains of Rock from the Waters
edge, the tops enveloped in clouds, and the lower parts dismal and rugged in
the extreme; the descent of the Stream very rapid, the reaches short, and at
the close of many of them, the Rocks, (which at times assumed singularly grotesque
& fantastic shapes and at others all the different orders of architecture
on a most stupendous scale) overhanging the foaming Waters, pent up, to from
20 to 30 yds. wide, running with immense velocity and momentarily threatening
to sweep us to destruction." Extolling the "great exertions and unwearied
perseverence" of Fraser and Stuart, Simpson regretfully concluded that
"Frazers River, can no longer be thought of as a practicable communication
with the interior; it was never wholly passed by water before, and in all probability
never will again. . . . I shall therefore no longer talk of it as a navigable
stream, altho' for years past I had flattered myself with the idea, that the
loss of the Columbia would in reality be of very little consequence to the Honble.
Coys. interests on this side the Continent; but to which I now, with much concern
find, it would be ruinous, unless we can fall upon some other practicable route."
By the time he reached Langley, the Columbia River had taken on new significance
as arterial highway to the Interior, as provisioning centre and as window on
the Pacific. Fort Langley, instead of becoming the major depot on the Pacific,
would have to be relegated to the position of a mere coastal establishment.
Instead of returning to Kamloops to travel the Okanagan Valley route to Fort
Okanogan, as he had intended, Governor Simpson proceeded direct by boat to Fort
Vancouver. There he found that much progress had been made since his first visit
and that Dr. McLoughlin had zealously carried out his orders. The post had a
herd of over i50 cattle, and its farm lands produced good crops of corn, wheat,
barley, peas, oats and potatoes. The small staff of twenty men, about half the
size of the North West Company's original complement at Fort George, had built
a flour-mill and a sawmill and had constructed two small vessels.
At Fort Vancouver, Simpson turned his attention to the coastal trade, but not
before he had received a full briefing on all the obstacles impeding its development.
During the last phase of the War of 1812, the British blockade of American ports
had reduced the number of Yankee peddlers visiting the North West Coast. Now
they were back in greater force and doing a lively commerce in the ports of
South America, California, the Sandwich Islands, the Dutch East Indies and Russian
Alaska. In the Canton trade, they were more strongly entrenched than ever before;
in addition to supplying the fur mart, they were importing sandalwood from the
Sandwich Islands. Every season they plied the waters north of the Columbia River
looking for the now scarce sea otter and picking up quantities of land furs,
for despite the provisions of the Russo-American agreement of 1824, they were
trafficking with the Indians in arms, ammunition and liquor. Their scarlet blankets
and other trading goods often excelled British manufactures in appeal, and since
they made high profits from freighting and exchanging cheap goods for luxury
articles on voyages that lasted three years, they could afford to reduce their
tariff. Importing its trading goods directly from England, and having only furs
to carry back, the Hudson's Bay Company had much higher costs, and nothing but
a monopoly of the fur trade would make its Operations profitable. Rather than
abandon the field, it adopted delaying tactics, meeting American competition
at American prices, even though, as Archibald McDonald complained: "1000
Blkts: will Only draw 1000 Beaver in these days".18
In the interval between Governor Simpson's two visits in 1824 and 1828, the
Company had endeavoured to secure per-mission from the East India Company to
trade directly with Canton. Neither this attempt nor the endeavour to open other
Asian markets had succeeded, and after 1828 all shipments of furs were directed
to London. With prices on the London market rising, Simpson was no longer greatly
concerned about these failures, but he was determined to do what he could to
liberate the coastal trade in land furs from the American grip and to make a
bid for the supply trade with the northern Russian posts.
McLoughlin's efforts along these lines had been frustrated by shortage of supplies,
lack of shipping, and the indifference or the insubordination of the captains
of the Company's supply
ships. In what was supposed to be a reconnaissance cruise of the northern seacoast
in 1825 the captain of the William and Ann had spared himself the trouble of
obtaining the information which the Hudson's Bay Company needed, but he had,
on his return, relayed from a friendly American sea captain a report which led
McLoughlin to conclude that Nass River was the great centre of the trade in
land furs. Although this was still not substantiated, Simpson hoped that the
Nass River might offer a new route from the seacoast to New Caledonia and impelled
by his desire to maintain monopoly rights on the North West Coast, made plans
to build a post there.
To the Governor of the Russian-American Company at Sitka he sent notice of
the Hudson's Bay Company's entry into the coastal trade and an offer to provision
the Russian posts at low prices with imported English goods and agricultural
produce from Fort Vancouver. This overture, intended as an invitation to joint
effort against the American traders, was not taken up by the Russians, and the
Hudson's Bay Company was then left to devise its own methods for meeting American
competition.
During his winter at Fort Vancouver, Simpson, with the advice and co-operation
of McLoughlin, worked out the details of the Company's new policy. To put this
on a proper basis, he reported to the Governor and Committee, more ships were
needed; to keep these ships fully employed, the Company could use them during
"the dead season" to carry salmon to California and lumber to the
Sandwich Islands. McLoughlin soon ceased to share the Governor's enthusiasm
for trading-vessels: his experience during the next few years convinced him
that the coastal trade could best be developed by trading establishments.
On parting, neither man knew that for the next eight years the Chief Factor,
this "very bustling active man",19 would have no Opportunity for direct
consultation with the higher officers of the Company, and that Governor Simpson
himself be unable to return to the Columbia Department until 1841. Unaware of
the measure of independence he would attain, McLoughlm was left with the responsibility
of organizing the new branch of the Company's trade.
At first, his plans went awry. In March, 1829, almost on the eve of Governor
Simpson's departure, the inward-bound supply ship, William and Ann, which Simpson
had decided to substitute in the coastal trade for the small and vulnerable
Cadboro, was wrecked on the bar of the Columbia River, and her crew and cargo
were lost. In 1830, the Columbia bar took another toll: the supply ship Isabella.
Finally, in 1831, Lieutenant Aemilius Simpson, R.N., went north in the Cadboro,
and with the assistance of Peter Skene Ogden, founded Fort Simpson. The location
proved difficult of access for sailing-vessels, and three years later the post
was moved from the Nass River to the present Port Simpson on the Tsimpsean Peninsula.
In 1833, McLoughlin added two new posts along the seacoast: Fort McLoughlin
on Milbanke Sound near Bella Bella, and a southern shipping and provisioning
depot, Fort Nisqually, at the end of Puget Sound near the Cowlitz River route
to Fort Vancouver. The site for a third post, one on the Stikine River beyond
Russia's territorial ten-mile limit, was selected, but when Ogden went north
in the Dryad in the spring of 1834, he found the Russians blocking the river
with a gunboat under the protection of a fort which they had constructed during
the previous winter. "I trust John Bull will answer these hairy beasts
in their own way and see justice done to the loyal and dutiful sublects of his
Britanic majesty", wrote one indignant furtrader.20 On receiving McLoughlin's
estimate of £22,150 for loss of business, the Hudson's Bay Company, using
tactics reminiscent of those of John Meares, pressed for compensation and enlisted
the services of the Foreign Office. This diplomatic support proved useful in
preparing the way for the advantageous agreement made in 1839 with the Russian-American
Company.
As Superintendent of the Columbia Department, McLoughlin introduced his own
improvisations into the Company's policies. When Lieutenant Simpson died soon
after founding the post on the Nass River, the Chief Factor abolished the office
of Marine Superintendent which Governor Simpson had created, and turned over
to Ogden the management of the post and its marine trade. In 1832, when the
schooner Vancouver ran ashore and was severely damaged, McLoughlin sent Chief
Factor Duncan Finlayson to Honolulu to procure another ship, using in part the
credits built up by the Company's export trade. When Finlayson purchased the
American brig Lama and engaged her commander, Captain W. H. McNeill, a Bostonian
with experience in the American interloping trade, Mclougliljn approved Finlayson's
action. To meet American competition, he permitted, in violation of the Company's
rules and of international agreement, sales of arms, ammunition and liquor to
the Indians. The strategy of matching American prices, or undercut them, he
took for granted.
To one decision which was made for him, he took violent exception. In what
he must have regarded later as an considered proposal, he had suggested in 1827
that a steamboat be sent to the Pacific Coast. The idea appealed to Simpson:
in August, 1832, he pointed out to the Governor and Committee that a steam vessel
"would afford us incalculable advantages over the Americans, as we could
look into every Creek and cove while they were confined to a harbour by head
winds and calms . . . a Steam Vessel would, in our Opinion, bring the contest
to a close very soon, by making us masters of the trade".21 Two years later,
the Governor and Committee acted on this suggestion and placed the order for
construction of a paddle-wheel steamer of two engines, each of 35 horsepower.
The Beaver, in the company of the new barque Columbia, supply ship for the
Columbia Department, left Gravesend in August, 1835, to sail round Cape Horn
to the Sandwich Islands and on to Fort Vancouver to be fitted as a steamer.
On June 18, 1836, the pioneer steamboat on the Pacific Coast left the depot,
never, because of the dangerous Columbia bar, to return. Even before he saw
her, McLoughlin was convinced that she was an expensive luxury; his suspicion
was increased when on her first trading cruise to Fort McLoughlin and Fort Simpson
she took along a crew of 31, including four stokers and thirteen woodcutters,
finding use for the services of all as she voraciously 26 cords of wood every
three or four days.22 But although he would not admit it, the ugly little tramp
with her protective sides, her single black funnel and her side-wheels, proved
her worth by skillfully negotiating narrow channel,(establishing on her first
cruise the truth of Indian reports coal deposits at the northern end of Vancouver
Island) and greatly impressing the natives, who thought that "she could
do any thing but speak; and the white man must have been assisted in the work
by the Great Spirit".28
In addition to issuing instructions to the captain of the Beaver, McLoughlin
directed the work of the six large vessels which the Company employed in the
coastal trade in 1836. Already there were indications that his competitive trading
policies were successful and that not for long would his traders stand helplessly
by, as they had at the close of the season of 1835, watching an American sea
captain debase prices by selling "a swivil gun for a beaver; a ship's cooking
Camboose [stove] half worn for 2; a Metal Scabbard Sabre for 1; a 30 gall: cask
of Molasses pure for 3 beaver; a 30 gall: cask of rice for 5; a 100 lb. Cask
of fine bread for 3; an i8 gall: cask of Malaga wine for 3; an 18 gall: cask
of brandy for 3..." and paying four dollars and four yards of fine calico
each for a number of beaver peltries.24 The combination of permanent coastal
trading-centres and good shipping was increasing the flow of returns, and each
year the Company's supply ships returned to England with larger cargoes of furs.
Outwitting American traders, as McLoughlin could appreciate, provided the men
engaged in the coastal trade with plenty of diversion during the summer months;
the winter occupations of the two or three "gentlemen" and the half-dozen
French Canadians and half-breeds stationed permanently at the northern posts
were less absorbing. During these months, their duties were light, and almost
nothing happened to give any day particular interest. The climate was dismal;
day after day, the fog drifted in; for weeks on end torrential rain fell from
leaden skies, and when the sun broke through, the only recreation was strolling
on the rocky beach or on the trails cut through the deep forest. Young William
Fraser Tolmie, graduate in medicine from Glasgow University, did his best to
keep his spirits up by reading and re-reading the little stock of books on hand
at Fort McLoughlin, but after a year of the life, he noted in his diary: "Since
coming here what most frequently has been a matter of cogitation, is the dullness
of this place & of life in the 'Pays Sauvage' in general".25
To these lonely men, longing for news, former associates wrote long letters.
McLoughlin also wrote to them; but at Fort Vancouver, he was more than busy
with his correspondence with higher officials and with other subordinates. For
in addition to supervising the coastal trade, he kept careful watch over the
multifarious activities in the immense Columbia Department and over the affairs
of New Caledonia.
This district, for purposes of administration, finance and supply, had been
attached to the Columbia Department, and McLoughlin shared with its Chief Factor
responsibility for the efficient functioning of its transport system. Simpson's
prediction that the trade could not be too greatly expanded turned out to be
true. For many years it returned profits of £10,000, but with each passing
year the Indians brought in fewer beaver. The most noticeable decline was at
Fort Kamloops, where as early as 1827, Archibald McDonald reported that "a
person can walk for days together without seeing the smallest quadruped, the
little brown squirrel excepted",26 and in 1844 John Tod lamented, "There
appears to be no longer any prospect of either profit or pleasure here."27
But as a divisional point on the great interior brigade route, this post, as
Simpson had noted, was worth retaining, and its importance as a stock-raising
centre became yearly more evident.
The brigade route blazed in the spring of 1826 through the Okanagan Valley
to Fort Kamloops and north to Alexandria was still in use, no shorter route
having been discovered from the northern seacoast. Fort Alexandria, its most
northerly transfer point, was the paradise of New Caledonia. The post was situated
in lightly wooded, rolling country where there was shooting and fishing and
where good crops of grain and vegetables could be grown if the frosts did not
come too early. Here, to reduce dependence on Fort Colvile, Peter Skene Ogden
built the first flour-mill in British Columbia.
Farther north, at Fort George, at the confluence of the Nechako and Fraser
Rivers, there were cattle, but the grain crops were poor and the hope that "Pancakes
and hot rolls were . . . to be the order of the day: Babine salmon and dog's
flesh were to be sent-'to Coventry' ",28 failed to materialize. Conditions
at Fort McLeod remained almost unchanged: "A more dreary situation can
scarcely be imagined", wrote one fur-trader, "surrounded by towering
mountains that almost exclude the light of day, and snow storms not seldom occurring,
so violent and long continued as to bury the establishment."29 John Tod,
left to languish here for nine years through incurring Governor Simpson's displeasure,
lost facility in the use of his own language, and returned to York Factory speaking
"a linguistic 'stew', made of bits of Scotch, French and Indian dialects,
thickened with what seemed to be English."30
Everywhere in New Caledonia, except at Fort Alexandria, there was "the
same miserable solitude" and little to do but read and re-read the few
books and the occasional English periodical that came to hand. But sometimes
life was brightened, as it was in 1833 at Fort St. James, when Chief Factor
Peter Warren Dease, soon to become famous for Arctic exploration, wintered there
and arranged "musical Soirees". During that winter there was also
chess, backgammon, whist and spinning of yarns about "dog racing, canoe
sailing, and l'amour; sometimes politics; now and then an animated discussion
on theology, but without bitterness
",31 as well as a feast given
by the great chief of the Carriers, Kwah, at which the main dishes were roasted
bear, beaver and marmot; berries mixed with rancid salmon oil; and fish roe
that had been buried underground a twelvemonth.
Peter Skene Ogden, veteran of the five great Snake River trapping expeditions
and inaugurator of the coastal trade, came to reside at Fort St. James in 1835
on his promotion to Chief Factor in charge of New Caledonia. This man, whose
reliability was unquestioned, had earned the right to lighter duty. His long
and harrowing years in the fur trade had sobered him, although he still enjoyed
playing practical jokes. Twenty years earlier, as a young Nor'Wester, he had
been known as "the humorous, honest, eccentric, law-defying Peter Ogden,
the terror of Indians, and the delight of all gay fellows";82 now he was
"a vigilant guardian of his corporation's interests".33
Each year Ogden led the brigade to Fort Vancouver. From Stuart Lake, he travelled
with the canoes to Fort George on the upper Fraser, picked up the furs, and
proceeded down the Fraser River to Fort Alexandria. There his pack-horses, each
carrying two "pieces" of 84 pounds, started Out for Fort Kamloops,
sometimes accompanying and sometimes following the brigade from that district
to Fort Okanogan. At Fort Okanogan there was a general rendezvous of the New
Caledonia, Thompson River and Fort Colvile brigades; then, under the charge
of a senior officer who knew the dangerous rapids, the united brigade made the
hazardous boat run to Fort Vancouver, arnving about June 15.
After spending a month collecting supplies, Ogden began the twenty-day return
trip by boat to Fort Okanogan. From there the Fort Kamloops and the New Caledonia
outfits started overland, every horse of the 200 or 300 in the train "in
his full beauty of form and color, and all so tractable".84 At Fort Alexandria,
supplies were packaged for each northern post, and Ogden's canoe brigade started
the twenty-day trip north to Fort St. James. From there, the "goods in"
were distributed by "large and small canoes, Horses, Dog Sleds and Men's
Backs".35
In spite of all his efforts, Ogden could not make his posts self-supporting,
and each year he packed in provisions and urged attention to the fishery. But
if diversification failed in New Caledonia, the same was not true at Fort Langley.
There, from the moment of his arrival, Archibald McDonald had realized the value
of the salmon fishery and had seen the possibilities of developing an export
trade. Fish were so abundant that they could be obtained from the Indians for
"Vermilion, Rings and other Trifles"36 and the cooper brought from
England found ample resources for manufacturing barrel-staves. But salt had
to be imported, and it took much experimentation to find a method of preservation
which assured that the fish arrived in foreign markets in good condition. Shipments
to England were disappointingly unsuccessful; but salted salmon carried well
as far as the Sandwich Islands, and there a growing market developed.
The value of its fishery, both for provisioning the Company's posts and expanding
its export trade, saved Fort Langley. More suitable sites for a coastal depot
on Whidbey Island and on Lulu Island were considered, but to preserve the salmon
trade, Dr. McLoughlin urged the retention of Langley.
The Company's desire for a Pacific depot that would be more accessible to sea-going
ships also threatened the abandonment of McLoughlin's beloved Fort Vancouver.
To him, there could be no location more suitable for "the grand mart"
and as base for the interior trade, and no situation more beautiful. His pride
was often echoed by visitors, particularly by those who arrived in the spring.
On the edge of the "noble woods", they found masses of tall lupins
and camas lilies, and in the farm gardens "young apples . . . in rich blossom
& extensive beds sowed with culinary vegetables . . . laid out in nice order".87
But to Governor Simpson, Fort Vancouver was objectionable on account of the
dangers of the Columbia bar; and to Directors of the Company, reports of outbreaks
of intermittent fever indicated that the site was unhealthy. In the summer of
1837, Captain W. H. McNeill, acting on instructions, examined the coast and
the islands inside the Strait of Juan de Fuca for a new site. His report on
Victoria harbour impressed James Douglas: "I am persuaded that no part
of this sterile & Bock bound Coast will be found better adapted for the
site of the proposed Depot or to combine, in a higher degree, the desired requisites,
of a secure harbour accessible to shipping at every season, of good pasture,
and, to a certain extent, of improvable tillage lands".38 Fort Adelaide
was the name first chosen by the Governor and Committee for the proposed depot,
but construction was apparently delayed until after consultation with Dr. McLoughlin.
Summoned to London to give a fuller report on the difficulties experienced
with the Russians on the Stikine River, McLoughlin left Fort Vancouver in March,
1838, turning over to Douglas, soon to be promoted to Chief Factor, responsibility
for the management of Fort Vancouver, and of the lower Columbia establishments
and the coastal trade.
For too long, both for the Company's sake and his own, McLoughlin had been
out of touch with its officers. The East India Company had already lost its
privileges in the China trade, and both in England and in Lower Canada feeling
was mounting against the other great monopoly. Before antagonism became too
apparent, the Hudson's Bay Company pressed the British government to extend
its licence of exclusive trade in the "Indian Territory" for another
period of twenty-one years. Simpson's report contrasting "the happiness
that was every where felt" with the "drunkenness, murder and general
demoralization which had formerly existed",89 helped it to achieve its
purpose.
In his relations with retired Company servants who wanted to turn to farming,
and with American trappers, hunters and settlers, McLoughlin had already displayed
a humanitarianism difficult to reconcile with the philosophy of the Company.
Simpson had come to the conclusion that he "would be a Radical in any Country
under any Government and under any circumstances".40 Visitors to Fort Vancouver
were struck by the fact that he was "an able politician", craving
information about "the political intelligence of Europe",41 and expressing
an interest in popular government. Meeting his old friend John Tod at Norway
House in the course of his journey to Montreal, McLaughlin "talked incessantly
all the while on the late events of Canada", and made no secret of the
fact that "he was strenuous in support of that arch rebel Peppeneau &
his party".42 Such a sentiment would hardly find favour with the authoritarian
and autocratic Simpson, whose support of the Crown at the time of "the
troubles" helped him to earn the knighthood which he received in 1841.
McLaughlin, with his lively interest in current affairs, undoubtedly noted
during his brief stay in New York en route to London the effects of the Panic
of 1837, which had not yet subsided. In 1838, American newspapers were reporting
farm prices depressed and western land values low, and, echoing the clamour
of the restless frontiersmen, they were agitating for free land grants in Oregon,
already considered by many nationalists to be American territory. For some years
now, returning American missionaries and journalists had been publicizing the
Eden of the West, and a Missourian, Senator Linn, had aleady introduced into
Congress a bill to organize Oregon as an Amen-can territory.
In London and in Paris, McLaughlin could find another portent: the trend in
men's fashions was changing. The beaver felt hat, popular with members of polite
society since the days of Charles II, was yielding favour to the Florentine
silk topper. If the fashion caught on, the Company of Adventurers Trading into
Hudson's Bay would find their sales of beaver skins considerably diminished.
The business which brought McLoughlin to London was soon resolved. Negotiations
at St. Petersburg had already been conducted at a high level; in the spring
of 1839 they were brought to a successful conclusion at a private meeting in
Hamburg between Governor Simpson and Baron Ferdinand Wrangell of the Russian-American
Company. When the English company dropped its claim for indemnity in the Dryad
affair, the Russian American Company consented to lease its coastal strip south
of Mount Fairweather and to transfer its post at the mouth of the Stikine Biver
to the Hudson's Bay Company. For its part, the Hudson's Bay Company undertook
to provide the Russian posts with supplies of food, thus ending their dependence
on American sources and on their California post. Now the two great monopolies
would work hand in hand; at last the Americans would be driven from the North
West Coast.
But the price of victory on the seacoast was the expansion of farming and the
introduction of settlement inland. To fill its Russian contract, the Hudson's
Bay Company, modifying an earlier suggestion of Dr. McLoughlin, established
a subsidiary organization, the Puget's Sound Agricultural Company, to undertake
large-scale farming operations at Fort Nisqually and in the nearby Cowlitz Valley.
Old fur4raders saw the writing on the wall; the problems of the "Mutton
company" and of retired Company servants brought in from Red River to found
a colony north of the Columbia and to engage in farming, evoked none of their
sympathy. "Do not . . . my friend suppose that I am myself Smitten with
this colonization mania of ours", wrote Archibald McDonald. "That
a large population may in course of time Spring up over that country I do not
at all doubt, but with one eye one can see the motley crew of which it must
necessarily be composed: it will be of every cast and hue into which the naturalist
has subdivided the three primary branches that first peopled mother earth".48
Plunging into a welter of business arrangements on his return in October, 1839,
"the old Doctor", whose equanimity was now easily upset and temper
quickly aroused, tackled them with less order and energy than Simpson, who was
bent on efficiency, expected. Late in the year, McLoughlin took a brief look
at Victoria harbour, but dismissed it as unsuitable as a site for a depot. In
the spring of 1840, he sent Douglas north to take over the Stikine post and
to build Fort Taku in Alaska. In December, he sent him to California to trade
and to buy live stock. From this trip, Douglas returned to advise purchase of
property for a mercantile establishment at Yerba Buena in the port of San Francisco,
and the Chief Factor, interested in developing a trade in hides and tallow,
although he knew that Simpson was on his way to Fort Vancouver and could soon
be consulted in the matter, took the fateful step of completing the purchase.
"With a dashing train of Knights and squires of various diguus",44
Sir George, as he had recently become, arrived at Fort Vancouver on August 25.
There Douglas received him, "Mr. McLaughlin, the gentleman in charge",
as Simpson put it, "being absent at Puget Sound".45 The Governor rested
Only a week; then he was off to inspect the new Company farms in the Olympic
Peninsula and the northern coastal posts. The Beaver picked him up at Fort Nisqually.
As he sailed across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, he found the scenery delightful,
and noted that the southern tip of Vancouver Island was "well adapted for
colonization; for in addition to a tolerable soil and a moderate climate, it
possesses excellent harbours and abundance of timber. It will doubtless become,
in time, the most valuable section of the whole coast above California".46
His brief stay in the north confirmed his expectations: the Americans had been
driven from the coastal trade, and retrenchment was possible. Abruptly, and
without consulting McLoughlin, he reversed the policy which the Chief Factor
had developed over a period of fifteen years. All the northern posts except
a supply depot at Fort Simpson were to be closed: the Beaver would do their
work.
On this, his last inspection trip to the Columbia Department, Sir George was
on a journey round the world, and had little time to spare. "I may remark
that he at least forms an exception from the general rule 'that great bodies
move slow'", commented John Tod.47 But before he started across Siberia,
Simpson wanted to see his whole Pacific empire, stretching from Alaska in the
north to the ports of San Francisco and Honolulu in the south. In other parts
of his dominions his problems were harassing: the opposition of Quebec merchants
to any extension of the term of the Company's trading rights was arousing a
Canadian protest, and as the rebellions of 1837 had indicated, Canadians were
only too anxious to reject entrenched economic or political privilege. The presence
of free-traders in the Red River valley was also an increasing embarrassment
and warning that American enterprise would not be contained by political boundaries.
On the Pacific slope, the problems were unique and even more complex.
Twice before, companies operating on what was almost a continental scale had
attempted to unite the land and the marine trade. Astor's effort had been doomed
to failure by the inadequate equipment of his Pacific base with personnel, supplies
and trading goods. The North West Company had been brought close to disaster
by extravagance, competition inland, lack 6f coastal bases and inability to
trade directly with Canton. It was too soon for Simpson to tell if he had made
the wrong decisions in adopting policies of stringent economy and reduction
of personnel, of expanded capital investment in shipping and in coastal establishments,
and of diversification of operations. Was it possible that the Hudson's Bay
Company had relied too heavily on the Foreign Office for support of its economic
position in the zone between 54º40' and 42º, and that it had not made
a sufficiently great effort to maintain for itself a position of strength in
the Columbia basin? Now that American settlers, "the swarm of American
adventurers and vagarants",48 as Archibald McDonald disparagingly called
them, were establishing themselves in the Willamette Valley and south of Walla
Walla, would Oregon, as Simpson feared California was likely to, become another
Texas? If the new British colony in the Cowlitz Valley, north of the Columbia,
was not strong enough to maintain a British claim to the ports of Puget Sound,
would it be wise to strengthen the foothold north of the Strait of Juan de Fuca?
With time at a premium, it was more than irritating to "His Excellency",
Governor-in-Chief of all the Hudson's Bay Territories in North America, that
following his inspection of the settlement in the Willamette Valley, he should
have been detained three weeks in crossing the Columbia bar. He experienced
further annoyance in California, where the authorities proved to be far less
willing to permit free entry of goods into their ports than Douglas had led
McLoughlin to believe. By the time Sir George reached Honolulu to visit the
Company's agency and to hold his final consultations with McLaughlin, who had
accompanied him to the Hawaiian Islands, he was in no mood for argument.
Dr. McLoughlin's unwillingness to accept his decision to close the northern
seacoast establishments Simpson found exasperating; the endless denials of mismanagement
of coastal and shipping policies, tiresome; the attempt to justify the reckless
expenditure of money for property in California, reprehensible. Then, a few
months later, occurred the tragedy which made their reconciliation impossible.
In April, 1842, John McLaughlin, junior, a reckless and unreliable young man
who, because of adjustments in staff made by Simpson, had been left in charge
of Fort Stikine, was murdered. The Governor returned from Honolulu just in time
to send the first report of his death to the Chief Factor:
McLoughlin's son had fallen "in a drunken fray, by the hand of one of his
own men"; Simpson himself had apprehended the suspected murderer and turned
him over to the Russian authorities; in his opinion the verdict could only be
"Justifiable Homicide".49
The old Doctor never forgave Simpson this callousness. Worse, to the Company
itself he transferred a growing resentment soon to develop into almost an antipathy.
He was wounded by the London Committee's criticism of his extension of credits
to impoverished American settlers and by probes into the purpose and nature
of his investments at Oregon City. His attention occupied by fast-moving events:
the migration of Red River settlers to the Cowlitz Valley; the visit of Commodore
Charles Wilkes and his squadron of five American ships; the arrival of new "Labourers
in the Vineyard", including "another swarm of Jesuites, now as thick
as blackberries";50 the appearance of more American settlers, considered
by Archibald McDonald to be "Senator Linn's military colonists", he
was unable to forestall the establishment of an American provisional government
south of the Columbia. His son-in-law's suicide in 1845 at Yerba Buena, which,
defiantly, McLoughlin had refused to close, he attributed to the Company's niggardly
support of the California post.
In addition to all these personal griefs and disappointments, the "Great
White-Headed Eagle" had been required to carry out instructions for which
he had no liking. The northern posts which he had established had now to be
dismantled, and the new southern depot built.
In the summer of 1842, Chief Factor James Douglas, McLaughlin's assistant at
Fort Vancouver, had chosen the port of Camosack on the southern tip of Vancouver
Island for the new post. "The place itself appears a perfect 'Eden', in
the midst of the dreary wilderness of the North west coast", wrote Douglas,
"and so different is its general aspect, from the wooded, rugged regions
around, that one might be pardoned for supposing it had dropped from the clouds
into its present position".51 On March 13, 1843, he arrived in the Beaver
off Clover Point to select the precise site. A few weeks later, the Council
of the Northern Department decided to name what was intended to be a large new
depot in honour of Queen Victoria.
Under the pressure of conflicting national interests, Fort Langley, a lower
Fraser valley outpost, and Victoria, an island seaport, had, quite suddenly,
acquired strategic and commercial importance. Only twenty-two years before,
when the Hudson's Bay Company had absorbed the property and personnel of the
North West Company, New Caledonia, the fur-trading district lying north of Fort
Alexandria, had been its richest territory west of the mountains, and the solution
of New Caledonia's transport problem had been the Company's most immediate concern
in the Far West. Within a decade, this district had become subordinate to the
Columbia Department, a huge territory comprising the present states of Washington,
Oregon, Idaho and parts of Montana, Utah and southern British Columbia. In this
area, the Company for long maintained its hold by monopolizing the sale of European
goods to the Indians, providing the only market for their furs, and making the
Snake, and to a lesser extent, the Sacramento Valley, fur deserts.
Yet despite its experience and ingenuity, the great Bay company had been unable
to prevent extension of the American economic frontier. American hunters, trappers
and settlers knew that their government had inherited Spanish claims in the
Pacific Northwest, and that the British government had recognized their right
to trade west of the mountains. So they had moved into the fur preserve. The
Hudson's Bay Company first found itself losing its "freemen" to the
employ of fur-traders from St. Louis, and then assisting starving American squatters
by extension of credit and purchase of crops. Finally, it was unable to discourage
the fervour and enthusiasm of American missionaries, come to found in Oregon
a New Jerusalem. By the early 40'S, wagon loads of immigrants from Iowa and
Missouri were moving slowly over the long trail to the Columbia.
From the North West Company, the Hudson's Bay Company had inherited a partly
navigable, partly overland, transportation route to the northern interior; an
oceanic supply route; and a maritime trade centred in northern islands and deep
inlets. To protect all of these, it had reduced competition on the seacoast
to the minimum. To maintain them all profitably, it had diversified its operations.
But the emphasis in this diversification had been on agriculture.
Throughout the whole period, the eyes of the Bay men had remained fixed on
London, their traditional mart. Trans-Pacific trade to Canton had not been established;
and neither the California nor the Hawaiian market had been greatly expanded.
All the time, American peddlers had been busy shuttling from Pacific port to
Pacific port, laying the foundations for stepping-stones to the Orient and preparing
to open a new and undeveloped market in Japan.
Now whole areas were denuded of beaver and marten, and London could no longer pay the old prices. Chief Factors and Chief Traders noticed the difference when they received their share of the annual dividends. Times were changing, as one discerning Chief Factor noted in a letter to a friend: "Something must be wrong in the state of Denmark, or else the Fur Trade is d-m--d fallen never to rise again & to mend the matter it would appear that master Jonathan is likely to have a fine Slice from us, if they get the line of 49 our Columbia is dished, what then will become of all the great doings of late years on that side the Mountains".52